6 Common Causes of Yellow Leaves in Plants (and How to Fix Them)

August 6, 2020 by micah catherine 2 Comments

As a plant owner, one of the last things you want your plant to begin developing is yellow leaves. After all, aren’t yellow leaves a sign the plant is a hopeless case and surely on the way to expiring? Not necessarily! In fact, yellowing leaves are one way your plant is telling you it’s time to switch up its care routine a little. Diagnosing the cause of yellow foliage is a bit like solving a mystery, so it may take a little patient sleuthing to solve your plant’s problem. Here are six possible causes:

Overwatering and underwatering are two of the most common reasons a plant’s leaves might turn yellow. Thankfully, this is an easy fix! Dry soil may cause leaves to yellow and fall off in the plant’s attempt to conserve water. Soil that is consistently saturated with water (especially if the pot doesn’t have a drainage hole) will lead to root rot, another culprit of yellow leaves. Test out the moisture level of the soil by pressing your finger a few inches into the dirt. If the soil is dry, it’s time to get your plant on a more routine watering schedule. If it feels soaked, ease up on the watering and let the soil dry out before giving it another drink.
The temperature of your home is another culprit of changing leaf color. If your plant is near a source of heat (fireplace or heat vent) or a source of cold (drafty window or air conditioner), it may show its displeasure by developing yellow leaves. If you know your home has temperature fluctuations or you notice your plant is situated near a problem area, try to provide a more stable environment. Most houseplants enjoy temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees.
Too much or too little sunlight are two other common causes of pale or yellow leaves. It might be easy to assume that all plants need lots of light, but this isn’t always the case. Some plants, like the Golden Pothos, don’t mind shady parts of your home and will develop yellow foliage if left too long in bright light. Other plants, like succulents, prefer vast amounts of sunlight and will pale without it. When purchasing a new plant, read the label to learn what level of light it needs to stay healthy. Otherwise, a quick search on plant care websites like thesill.com will inform you how much sun your plant needs.
Nutritional deficiency is another possibility if your plant is showing yellowing leaves. Without the proper nutrients, either from the soil or fertilizer, plants can quickly become distressed, even if they’re getting the correct level of sunlight and water. If yellowed leaves are also accompanied by a slow-growing plant and browning leaf tips, your plant may be lacking essential nutrients like nitrogen, which promotes healthy foliage growth. You can use liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer, or granular fertilizer to add nutrients to your plant’s soil, but be sure to read instructions carefully to avoid fertilizer burn.
Disease or pests unfortunately can also lead to yellowed leaves on your plant. Insects like spider mites and aphids will cause pale or yellowing leaves, but also show other signs of infestation like cottony fuzz along the stem. Be sure to thoroughly rinse your plant, spray it with neem oil, and remove any affected leaves. Disease that develops on your plant (often caused by pests) will show up as patches of mottled yellow-colored leaves, in addition to deformed and crinkled leaves and stems. This may be the only time your plant cannot be saved and is best removed so as to avoid infecting other plants.
Maturing plants may also rid themselves of older leaves, which will yellow and fall off. In this case, yellow leaves aren’t cause for concern as they’re simply part of the natural aging process. If after careful scrutiny you believe your plant’s yellow leaves aren’t from one of the above problems, you have nothing to worry about. Simply trim back these leaves to allow new growth.

It takes a lot of practice and dedication to make sure all your plants are happy and thriving in your home. The good news is that, in time, this hard work will pay off and you won’t have to diagnose problems as often. Happy planting!

XO,
Micah

How to Pot Houseplants in 3 Easy Steps

July 30, 2020 by micah catherine

One of the simplest ways you can ensure your new plants are healthy and growing strong is to pot them when they’ve outgrown their plastic nursery containers. If you’ve been nervous to pot houseplants you’ve recently purchased, or think it might be too late, don’t worry! Your plant can stay in its original container for weeks (and even months) before it’ll need a new home.

Just remember, plants thrive on the nutrients found in rich potting soil, in addition to soaking in light and water. It’s only natural that after some time, your plant will have benefited from much of the nutrients in the small amount of soil and will need to be re-potted. For plants still in their nursery pots, check for roots growing out of the drainage holes and up through the top of the soil. If so, it’s root bound and time to move your plant to a new pot! Here’s how:

1. Gently remove the plant from the current pot
Placing one had firmly at the base of the plant, turn it sideways and gently tap the bottom of the plastic pot. Then, squeeze carefully around the edges to loosen the soil and roots. Slowly pull the pot from the container being careful not to strain the stems.

2. Remove excess soil from the base and roots
This part can get tricky, so take your time and be gentle with the fragile roots. While still holding onto the base of your plant, use your other hand to massage the soil from around the roots. If your plant is root bound, these roots will most likely be large and winding, so you can uncurl them if needed. When most of the soil has been removed, your plant is ready to pot!

3. Secure the plant in the pot with fresh soil
This is the easy part! Before adding your plant to its new pot, put a small layer of soil at the bottom and pack it to remove any air pockets. Then center your plant in the pot and add soil until the roots are covered and the dirt is filled to just below the rim. Firmly, but gently, press the soil down around the base of the plant. Then give your newly potted houseplant a drink, watering until the soil is moist and water drips from the drainage hole.

You’re done! Now you know how to pot houseplants and can help them thrive in a bigger, healthier home. Have you been putting off potting? Or are you a pro? Tell me in the comments!

XO,
Micah

How to Drill a Drainage Hole in a Ceramic Planter

July 16, 2020 by micah catherine 1 Comment

how to drill drainage holes in ceramic planters

As a plant lover, there’s nothing worse than discovering a beautiful ceramic planter, only to find after you’ve peered inside that it has no drainage hole. While this may not seem like a big deal to the average onlooker, it can be a matter of life and death for your plant. Yikes.

Why planters are still made without holes is true cause for confusion. Especially since anyone with a green thumb knows that plants living without proper drainage often suffer from root rot (which can be fatal). Thankfully, with the proper tools and a little handiness, you can easily drill a drainage hole into any planter! You’ll need the following supplies:

Power drill
3/16″ – 1/2″ masonry bits
Painter’s tape
Ceramic planter
Your favorite plant

Pro Tip: If you don’t have access to a power drill, check your local library. Many libraries have tools available to rent for patrons. You can find a set of masonry drill bits at Home Depot for around $20.

Step 1: Mark the Holes
Using a piece of painter’s tape, mark where you want your drainage hole drilled. In most cases, this will be the center. (I drilled two holes because my pot was extra large.) The painter’s tape keeps the drill bit from moving around before you get traction from the bit going deeper than the surface.

Step 2: Drill a Small Hole
To keep your ceramic pot from shattering, drill your first drainage hole using a 3/16″ bit, with the painter’s tape as a guide. Drill slowly and with even pressure. This process will take a few minutes, and it’s best not to rush it. Any resistance from the planter immediately dissipates once the drill makes it through the base.

Step 3: Drill a Large Hole
Using increasingly larger drill bits, slowly widen the drainage hole. A 1/2″ hole is a fairly standard size for most plants. Once you’ve reach this side and cleanly drilled through the base of the planter, remove any dust and debris from the area. Your planter is ready for your new plant! If you need tips on finding the right potting mix, read my blog post here.

Ready for a Little DIY?
If you’re like me and are tired of buying terra cotta pots simply because they all have drainage holes, you’ll benefit from knowing how to drill your own drainage holes. And you’ll never have to choose function over beauty when shopping for new ceramic planters again! Have you already mastered drilling drainage holes? Show me your beautiful planters!

XO,
Micah